1st I tried adhesive backed film. It was impossible to lay it out, peel the backer, and keep it nice and flat while smoothing it out to keep out the bubbles. I kept getting wrinkles, even though I was using a plastic scraper to smooth it down as I went. When trying to peel it off and re-adjust to fix the wrinkles, it just stretched the film and was pretty much impossible to fix. On top of that, there were small ovals where apparently there were voids in the glue (this was visible before I even peeled the backer off the sheet). I don't think the voids would effect anything, but the wrinkles sure would be a problem. I ended up keeping the center and trimming off all the bad areas and was left with a rather small build area. I suppose if I had 2-4 more hands, it may help, but feel I would still have a hard time keeping it from wrinkling.
I then I bought some film without the adhesive backing. I found some spray glue that claimed to dry clear, and was removable if a light coat is applied, and permanent if both surfaces have a medium coating, set for one minute, then join. It sure didn't dry clear, it has more of a frosted translucent look, and peeled up pretty easily.
What does everyone else do to get the best film application to the build plate?
Post by jimustanguitar on May 9, 2016 15:18:33 GMT -5
I'm not familiar with the exact material or process that you're working with, but I'd try to apply it like window tint. Spray Windex on the surface (clean it first, of course) and "float" the adhesive material on top of it until you have it positioned just right. Then squeegee the air bubbles out and let it sit until the windex evaporates.
I'm not familiar with the exact material or process that you're working with, but I'd try to apply it like window tint. Spray Windex on the surface (clean it first, of course) and "float" the adhesive material on top of it until you have it positioned just right. Then squeegee the air bubbles out and let it sit until the windex evaporates.
Ah! Didn't realize that was all that was used for window tint, should work just the same I suppose, thank you. I should probably use ammonia free windex.
FWIW the LittleRP and others don't even bother sticking the FEP to anything. It's literally just tensioned like a snare drum head. I've put a couple hundred hours on mine in this configuration and it works just fine. Come on out to the Hive Thursday and we can show you.
FWIW the LittleRP and others don't even bother sticking the FEP to anything. It's literally just tensioned like a snare drum head. I've put a couple hundred hours on mine in this configuration and it works just fine. Come on out to the Hive Thursday and we can show you.
I plan on making it out one of these days, but my kids have Cub Scouts and baseball games every Thursday. Looks like June 9th is the earliest I'd be able to go. What's the address? The link on the upcoming events window says it can't find any matches.
FWIW the LittleRP and others don't even bother sticking the FEP to anything. It's literally just tensioned like a snare drum head. I've put a couple hundred hours on mine in this configuration and it works just fine. Come on out to the Hive Thursday and we can show you.
I plan on making it out one of these days, but my kids have Cub Scouts and baseball games every Thursday. Looks like June 9th is the earliest I'd be able to go. What's the address? The link on the upcoming events window says it can't find any matches.
I fixed the Link. Thanks for letting us know!
Some things are meant to be closed. Your mind isn't one of them.
I'm not familiar with the exact material or process that you're working with, but I'd try to apply it like window tint. Spray Windex on the surface (clean it first, of course) and "float" the adhesive material on top of it until you have it positioned just right. Then squeegee the air bubbles out and let it sit until the windex evaporates.
Ah! Didn't realize that was all that was used for window tint, should work just the same I suppose, thank you. I should probably use ammonia free windex.
Tried windex, worked great for positioning. Used a squeegee to remove the excess windex and air bubbles and let it sit for almost two days. It never evaporated, still was wet, I just went ahead and peeled up 1/2 the sheet and wiped it down with paper towel then smoothed it out with a plastic paint scraper, then did the same to the other side. No matter how careful I was, I couldn't get all the bubbles out. It might have been okay, but I removed it to try something else.
FWIW the LittleRP and others don't even bother sticking the FEP to anything. It's literally just tensioned like a snare drum head. I've put a couple hundred hours on mine in this configuration and it works just fine. Come on out to the Hive Thursday and we can show you.
I did like the idea of a flex bottom, but figured with my 12"x12" plate, I wouldn't be able to get it tight enough, and it would allow it to stretch too far. I only had about 1/4" extra film to grab onto and pull. It didn't seem like it was pulled very taut, but I went ahead and printed a couple items that were about 3"x6" and solid. I couldn't even see that there was resistance separating each layer, I had to raise it and see for sure that there was actually something stuck to the build plate. Thanks guys!
I now have another problem to tackle. I have two different size build plates, one for when the projector is close for smaller, higher resolution prints, and one for large prints. The small one has no problems, but the larger one, due to the large size of the plate and the viscosity of the resin, it takes quite a bit of force to tilt the vat down or lift the build plate at a reasonable speed. This is only a problem for the 1st 3/16" or 1/4" when the plate is sitting deep in the resin. The tilt or Z-lift needs to be extremely slow while it comes out of the resin, or the motors start skipping steps. The way I see it, I have two options.... A.) Add 12V+ stepper drivers. B.) Figure out a way to make Creation Workshop switch to faster motor movements after a certain number of layers. I know that you can input formulas, which I'm sure I could figure out fairly easily, but where I think might be a problem, is that you input a time in the GUI for how long the mechanical process will take, and the software inputs that time into the G-code output. This is so that when the projector spits out the next slice, it does so after all the mechanical movements are finished. If I program the printer, say to take one minute to tilt the vat for the first 200 layers, then after 200 layers, switch to 10 seconds, the projector is still going to wait over a minute before the next slice. Any ideas?