Yep, a polarized light source would probably work. That said, my goal is to make the MakerJuice resins work without the need for a lower intensity light source for white.
It's really interesting: the same base resin is used and all the user does is add a bit of pigment to the unpigmented resin to make their colored resin. Adding even the slightest amount of white pigment causes this flashing. When I'm talking about flashing, here's what it looks like when trying to print a set of three rings using White resin:
However, you print in say, yellow or red, and here's what it looks like:
Post by bvandiepenbos on Jul 9, 2014 10:03:04 GMT -5
Shane, do you think we could print white with Alex's projector, which is older and not as bright? even if he could only print white it would be someplace to start. He is still waiting to get it back from a relative he loaned it to, then we can see exactly what model it is. Does lower wattage projector produce lower quality prints? or just slower?
Pretty wild what a difference a PC's processing power can have a print. I tried using an OLD EeePC that I had and I was consistently pegging 100% CPU usage during an image change, which caused inconsistent image times, and subsequently print imperfections.
Printed four chess pawns last night from www.thingiverse.com/thing:305639. Once I get all the black pieces done, I'll develop a water-clear resin for the other half. The current resin I'm using is MakerJuice SubG+ Black and each piece is printed @ 0.1mm layer height, taking just over an hour per part.